Shoe Stoppers!

Cushla Reed - Minx/ Cushla Reed

At the last Fashion Exposed fair, Cushla Reed featured a special section at her stand for some of her designs. "They were more flirty, quirky and individual than the rest," she explains. "They were picked up especially well in Australia."

A couple of clients thought the gifted New Zealand shoe designer ought to go the whole hog. She took their advice and the August fair will see the launch of her own-name label, Cushla Reed: The Minx - a stunning collection ranging from lace-up satin shoes in soft variegated colours, to evening glamour in black suede.

Also new will be Cushla's first collection of bags and a host of Autumn-Winter 2011 temptations for key label Minx. Tweeds, tartans and animal prints figure prominently. So do flats, tailored lace-up styles, trims such as rabbit fur and several standouts that demonstrate the designer's flair for combining originality and function.

"I've designed some boots with a detachable leg collar, so you can wear them at ankle height or just below the knee," says Cushla. "I've also done sheepskin boots printed with a beautiful vintage rose pattern. They're not like Ugg boots. The only similarity is that the fleece is inside."


Belanci

Over the past six months, Belanci has featured in a raft of major Australian publications including Cosmopolitan, Cleo, Who, OK! and Fairfax's Good Weekend and Sunday Life magazines..

Remarkably, the boutique shoe label has only been around since January 2010 and its founders happen to be two young Sydney women - Annie Xaypangna, 25 and Belinda Lui, 23.

Both have a passion for high fashion shoes. If only those luxe labels were affordable, the pair sighed as they chatted over dinner one night in mid-2007 - and promptly decided to fill the gap.

Intensive R & D and sharp fashion sense have paid off. Since its launch, Belanci has become a hot boutique favourite with devotees including Dannii Minogue and beauty queen/model Laura Dundovic.

Classic-with-an-edge design, superior Italian leathers, limited edition styles and beautiful packaging including embroidered velvet shoe bags have all played their part in Belanci's swift rise.

For Spring 2010, Annie and Belinda have concentrated on work/play elegance in cocktail colours, while their European-inspired Winter 2011 collection is big on rich, dark tones and classy wooden-heeled boots.

 

Studio TMLS

For 20 years, Brazil’s Studio TMLS has produced edgy footwear for the high streets of Europe and the UK. Now it has established its own exclusive label for selected boutiques.

Designed in London, the nature-inspired launch collection in fine leathers and textiles features handcrafted details such as delicate flower embellishments and materials ranging from wood and raffia to crystals and semi-precious stones.

An elegant palette includes purple, blues, greens, taupe, sand and grey in soft shades enhanced by matte, washed and bleached effects. From heels and platforms to flats, the Studio TMLS look is arresting and feminine.

Tilly Rose

Caroline Cox was thrilled when she discovered a craft workshop that produced plaited leather.

“It’s a difficult technique, so you don’t see much of it around,” says the co-founder of Sydney shoe label Tilly Rose. “We used it for summer ballerinas – the response was sensational – and we’ve done boots with plaited leather for our Autumn-Winter 2011 collection.”

Launched in 2008 by Caroline and her partners, Kaye Crane and Tanya Davidson, Tilly Rose has become a boutique favourite nationwide thanks to the trio’s creativity – design is a joint effort - and first-hand research.

“We travel overseas regularly to look at trends and concentrate on the ones that best suit the Australian market,” says Caroline.

Antique-finish leathers and a predominantly earthy palette, from tans to khaki and camel, are among the label’s key new season features. Adding exoticism to the chic shoes and boots are materials such as ponyskin and the overlapping textures that have become Tilly Rose’s signature.


Macanna

When Tuscany's Masaccio family founded Macanna in 1960, "green" was just a colour. Today, the Italian company renowned for using only natural vegetable tannins extracted from plants such the willow, chestnut and cherry plum, and spurning chemical coatings for its fine leathers, is regarded as an eco-friendly pioneer.

It is also a fashion favourite. With its rich palettes and embellishments, Macanna's casual/leisure women's shoes and accessories exude flair and originality.

Macanna's founders didn't believe in advertising. Word of mouth would propel the brand, they believed. They were right.


Estilo Emporio

Why did a Sydney family called McDonough choose the Spanish for "Style Centre" as the brand name for their company? It's no affectation.

Estilo Emporio began in Sitges, a fishing village on Spain's Costa Brava, where the McDonoughs designed and manufactured leather goods.

"My father Mac owned tanneries in Europe," says Michaela McDonough, 26, who with her mother Mardee, designs Estilo Emporio's chic ranges.

Over the past five years, they have grown to encompass bags, belts, shoes, boots, gloves and most recently, jackets and vests - all impeccably crafted from top quality Spanish and Italian leathers, and given an edge with trims such as mock croc.

Their classic, yet sharply directional appeal is no accident. "We do two major trips each year for inspiration - mainly to New York, Los Angeles, Paris and Milan," says Michaela.

Also adding her creative skills to the Leichhardt-based family company that is becoming an international force, is Michaela's younger sister, Kira, 21, who is currently studying at NIDA.


Fiebiger Shoes

Melbourne sisters Bianca and Kveta Fiebiger used to work in the music industry. They had senior jobs in a recording company - Bianca was in management; Kveta (‘little flower" in Czech) looked after publicity - but increasingly, they felt frustrated.

"We wanted to do something more creative," says Bianca. "Both of us love colourful shoes, but you know what it's like in Melbourne - great if you're into black - so we said: okay, let's design our own."

Two years on, Fiebiger Shoes has an eager following coast-to-coast and the sisters are gearing up for the Australian Shoe Fair with Jungle Fever Hot, a sizzling collection dominated by tropical colours and animal prints.

"There will be pastels as well as brights and we'll present the collection in a garden tea party setting," says Bianca.

Some ankle and platform boots will be featured, though the emphasis, as usual, will be on sexy, colourful shoes that appeal year-round.

Notes Bianca Fiebiger: "Seasons have become so convoluted - ridiculous to see stores full of winter stock in March when it's still hot."


Nick and Peter Bokas - Squire

Sydney brothers Nick and Peter Bokas grew up knowing all about blocks and lasts. It was inevitable. Their father George was a shoemaker and they followed him into the craft.

They also inherited his passion for it and their expertise was sought by many. "We were forever being asked to assist with men's footwear prototypes, especially in details like adjusting fit," Nick recalls.

Increasingly, the brothers became frustrated. Why couldn't Australia produce the sort of directional, high-quality shoes they saw on their trips to Europe? In 2003, they took matters into their own hands and launched Squire.

"We target a wide market," says Nick. "Squire is about forward fashion, but it also appeals to men who want a versatile, quality dress shoe and because we do our own manufacturing our price points are highly competitive. We still build our own lasts and our leathers are from Italy and Portugal."

Today, the label that conjures chivalrous knights is stocked in quality men's stores nationwide and the Bokas brothers are never short of inspiration. "Pete and I love what we do," says Nick. "It's in our blood."


Brazil Line

Brazil loves its fashion shoes feminine and stylish. With all that hot dancing, they also have to be divinely comfortable. Brazil Line delivers with two ranges; the elegant Beira Rio and boutique collection Indian Line (as in Amazon Indian). From sandals and casual flats to glamour heels high and low, the ranges reflect fine Brazilian craftsmanship.

 


Billie shoes

When Sydney's Susannah Khouzame launched her casual unisex footwear label Billie in late 2007, she hoped for a strong response at home and abroad. She got it. Her edgy Winter 2011 collection, which introduces some great leather boots, continues the winning streak. Also making its mark is Susannah's stylish women's label Billini.

 


Fujian Footwear

Military-inspired or vintage nostalgia? Both boot trends are hot for Winter 2011 and Fujian Footwear's Zola collection makes the most of them in soft, waxy leathers and fabulous styling. The Melbourne-based firm will also present the latest ranges from its other brands including Allino, Wilde, Just Bee and Italian favourite, The Flexx.